The isolation of climbing El Cap is a bizarre paradox.  You hang suspended, thousands of feet off the ground, but yet the Valley floor is right there, dump trucks banging, cars honking, friends shouting, it’s so close and so far away.  As you sit at belays you stare down at the valley floor watching the cars pass at night like on the Peter Pan ride at Disneyland.  You know people are there, taking photos and staring up.  You have cell phone service and you can call your friends, parents, or your girlfriend.

In the days I have spent on El Cap I have often wondered what would happen if you received some sort of terrible news.  Do you bail?  Do you push for the summit and hurry down?  Because while there is very little isolation in many ways, it doesn’t change the fact that you are thousands of feet off the ground with no easy way down.  What do you do if you get some kind of terrible news?

This past June, Carmen and I made plans to climb El Cap again.  This would be her second trip up the big stone; the first was a speedy, beat-the-storm, journey up the Zodiac.  We had a great time but I learned that climbing seven or eight hard, steep pitches in a day was a bit much on one’s first El Cap route.  So this time, we decided to climb a route that was over ten pitches longer…in the same amount of time…

Luckily, as I sat in the Caf with Carmen, eating a philly cheese with bacon, we discussed the plan with our good friend Ben Doyle.  He sat, patiently listening, then looked at me, and in a way only Ben can, he invited himself along.  He had a list of reasons, telling me how it would make it easier for everyone, it would be faster, it would be better for Carmen, it would be more fun.  So after some hemming and hawing he convinced me that it was a good plan. 

The Man.

The weather had been total crap that June.  It was unseasonably wet and the Valley had become more oppressive than ever.  Too much talking about climbing had begun to drive Carmen to the edge.  The massive walls were beginning to feel claustrophobic and cramped.  I was eager to get back to the tall, vertical freedom of El Cap.

Ben headed around the Seagull

Ben riding the pig

The plan was to climb about eight or nine pitches a day, spending the first night somewhere around pitch ten, the second night on the Bismarck Ledge, then climbing to the summit the last day.  Things worked perfectly, we ran the typical three man system without issues.  Ben and I took turns leading while the other  ‘rode the pig ‘(jumared the haul line) and then hauled the bags.  Meanwhile, Carmen seconded, in the end she cleaned every single pitch of the route as fast as we could lead them, no small task.

Carmen cleaning up the pitches 
Big lower outs somewhere around the molar 
Carmen in the afternoon as the skies quickly changed

While the weather on the first day was clear and wonderful, the late afternoon brought us a quick change of skies.  The threatening grey clouds moved in quickly as I tried to finish a final pitch to allow us to bivy under a large roof.  I knew I was too late when I heard the familiar whooshing sound of rain flying past you a thousand feet off the ground.

Carmen and Ben as the weather starts to turn 
Staying psyched just before the rain hits

Carmen bundled up earlier in the afternoon

It doesn’t take long for the watercourses on such a massive expanse of granite to begin to flow steady.  While I was staying dry under the roof, I looked down to see Carmen and Ben digging frantically in the bags, huddling against the wall and being hammered by rain.  I watched for a second as a wave of water swayed from the right to the left, passing over Ben who looked up right into as if he wondered what it was.  It then moving on to rain down on Carmen, huge abundant droplets of water soaked her.  I kept climbing, quickly towards the anchor.

By the time I got back to the belay the temperatures had dropped significantly but luckily the rain had subsided.  Carmen was shivering deep from her core and Ben was working on getting his ledge and fly up.  I quickly launched into action, getting the ledge up and fly on, then getting Carmen onto the ledge and bundled in jackets and sleeping bags.  She quickly warmed up and stopped shivering; Ben’s ledge was up, the rain stopped.  We began to relax.  I got out the stove and made hot food, we started to laugh and joke a little because we knew we were alright.

In the morning we were dry and happy, blue skies and sun blessed us and we pushed on for another thousand feet to the Bismarck Ledge.

Settin' up shop on the Bismarck Ledge

That night, as we sat on the Bismarck Ledge, enjoying the giant horizontal perch, laughing, drinking beer and reflecting on the torrent of rain from the night before.  I got out my cell phone and like I often do I sent a few text messages to my Dad, he loves the updates.  I decided to also return a call to my friend and big wall partner, Scott, and say hello from this beautiful location.

Wall Flowers

As soon as Scott answered the phone I knew something was terribly wrong.  Everything about his tone was wrong.  The night before, while we battled the rain, our good friend Zach Parke had been hit by a car while riding his bike in Santa Cruz.  It was a hit and run and they didn’t have many details yet.  I began to cry, Carmen and Ben just stared at me, not quite sure what was going on.  I told Scott where I was and he apologized, because he already knew, but had to tell me.

Zach had been my go to source for info on Mescalito and a great friend; I had just talked with him a few days before.  I looked at Carmen and Ben, and I looked around at where I was, and I sat there on the Bismarck ledge, two thousand feet off the ground, and cried.  I felt the isolation of El Cap, I felt how remote it truly was.  After a few minutes, when I cried the sadness out of my system, I decided that this was one of the great places that Zach had been, he had loved it and we did too.  I told myself there was no better place in the world to get bad news.  So we cracked another beer, we cried a little more, we laughed and joked and we remembered Zach Parke as the wonderful human being he was.



In memory of a friend loved and friend lost.




First One Day Ascent - Scorched Earth

‘Alright, heads up, I’m getting on this hook!’

Ammon, stepped over onto the talon hook that was barely perched on a fingernail of rock.  He started laughing.  I remember glancing at Sky.

“I can’t believe its holding!” Ammon shouted.

I looked back down at the belay, clipping and organizing things, although I can’t remember what exactly I was doing.  Maybe trying to get Sky onto the belay?  Then I heard it, ping!  The unmistakable sound of a hook popping off its perch.  Out of the corner of my eye I saw Ammon go flying past the belay.  I looked down over my right arm to watch him fall another thirty feet or more before slamming to the end of the rope.

When we asked Ammon if he was Ok he told he had a rope burn on his arm.  “How bad?” we asked him.  “It’s not to the bone!” he yelled back.

After the fall, I admit, some hesitation and negativity crept in.  The mediocre belay, the bolt hanger that Ammon’s fall bent, the insanely steep wall, they all started creeping into my mind.  Ammon remained psyched, but I think a little 50 footer is not likely to turn Ammon away.  Plus, he had a point, isn’t that all the more reason to push on? 

I'll let the pictures do the talking from here.

About to go

Luckily a passerby warned me that
the first pitch is pretty spicy.

Whats he doing?

uhhhhh...


Hey Ammon, how's that hook?!

That good, eh?

ARRRRRR!


The Lovetron.

The Big Brother

Steeper than God

Yeah, it's steep.



Jugging. Yay.

The Poison Pill

Son of Poison Pill

Our only ledge.  It was a nice one.

Stayin' comfy

It's still #$@%ing steep!

Sky takes over heading up wondering when
he will get to the Leavitator

Oh we're still psyched!

ARRRRRGGGG!  Success!
22:28 - First One Day Ascent of Scorched Earth

We slept here for about an hour.  I kept sliding down
farther and farther, but the rock was warm and felt so nice

We had a little mishap on the Leavitator.  Everything
was ok, but it was a little bit of a scary moment.

The De-Rack








Tribal Rite - A New Speed Record

Tribal Rite follows the yellow line, starting on the
Nose but breaking right at Boot Flake.
Photo: Mark Hudon


I was in the middle of my lunch break from my EMT refresher when Luke came by.  We were hoping for a speed record on Tribal Rite that coming weekend with Skiy Detray.  Looking a little distraught, Luke told me how his bike had just been run over at El Cap meadow.  Coupled with a rain-stormed journey up Lurking Fear, he was ready for new venues. 

I couldn’t blame Luke for wanting to take off.  Hanging out in the Valley without a solid plan or place to stay is, to say the least, difficult.  We had a pretty huge season and were ready for some free living and free climbing.

I knew I couldn’t bail on Skiy, I was committed; so we tracked down another friend, Kevin Prince, for the push on Tribal.  We knew Kevin would be fast and fun to climb with, even late into the night.  When Skiy and I started talking about the best tactics for gunning to Boot Flake with six gallons of water and a haul bag, the level of misery this mission would entail became clear.

The plan was for Kevin to lead us to Boot as fast as possible, Skiy and I jugging behind him with a backpack with three gallons of water each, clothes, food and other things.  This could be over 24 hours of wall climbing push if things didn’t go as hoped. We wanted to be prepared.

It ended up working out pretty much as planned.  We jugged.  The packs were heavy. It sucked.  But we did it.  It was hard, but we got to Boot Flake about half way up the wall (in terms of vertical distance) in about four and a half hours. That left nineteen hours to climb thirteen pitches and break the standing record of 23:33.
Photo: Tom Evans www.elcapreport.com
At the Boot, we shared a stance with two Argentinian climbers headed up the Nose.  They were on their third day of climbing, and had three more days on the wall. We were on our fifth hour and headed to the top.  They seemed more perplexed at our objective than anything else.  Maybe they were wondering the same thing many of us wonder:  What are we doing? Non-stop? Why?!

Skiy took over at the Boot, leading out into some A3 terrain and then into the formerly A4 pitch. He navigated loose rock while Kevin and I chatted on about this and that.  Skiy later remarked about how casual the whole route was.  Not in terms of the climbing, but in terms of our attitudes. Chatting away at belays, laughing and joking, then exploding into a flurry of motion when ropes were fixed and upwards movement required.


Sky coming up on the grey bands

Passing through the grey brands
Photo: Tom Evans www.elcapreport.com

Skiy put away four pitches of climbing quickly and efficiently.  On a nice ledge below the iconic feature dubbed ‘The Carrot’ I geared up to take us into the dark of night and through the next block of climbing.
Things go by in a blur at this point.  On hard pushes, once my block begins on these hard pushes I go into the zone, my eyes always feel like I am holding them open wider than normal.  My mental processing feels accelerated and heightened.  My hands move swiftly from cam to aider to fifi hook, to cam and aider again, up up up.

The pitches run together in my mind, even as I climb and think back to moves I just made I can’t always remember if they were on the previous pitch or the pitch before.  I think this is common for climbers: Many of us become ‘now’ centered machines, taking care of the task at hand, thinking of little else and focusing on quickly moving the team up the wall.  And this feeling, the hyper-focused state, is what I love. The hours of sitting in the harness waiting for my block melt away, and I become more focused than at any other time in my life.  The rhythm that I get into becomes a moving meditation, stilling my mind and that feeling keeps me coming back.

Three pitches from the summit, well into the darkness, Kevin took over for the final push to the summit.  Nineteen hours and forty-eight minutes later we arrived on the summit with a new speed record on El Cap and it felt good.  Sitting on the summit, despite how tired we were, we begin talking about what was next.


Eagle's Way - In Photos

Kevin Prince and I pushed Eagle's Way on September 23, just before the Search and Rescue Season came to an end.  It was only the second time we had roped up together but climbing with the Prince Factor is always exciting, despite forgetting all of our food, and Kevin sprinting back to the car, we spent 11:57 on the route...

Food Recovered, Parke 'Gunnit' Bags loaded.

A long way up...

Kevin quickly mixing the free and aid climbing up

I go now?



Steeper than expected

The Secret Weapons



Classic Kevin!

Hitch Hikers




I came around the corner at Crane Flat headed for San Jose and the two of them were standing there, thumbs out.  I was blowing out of Tuolumne Meadows a day early; I was sad to leave but ready to go.  It's weird to love a place so much, to spend all year wanting to be in that place more than anything, and then to leave early, anxious to move on but knowing that in a month I will be eager to go back.  

As I drove by the hitch hikers I gestured towards the back of my van shouting "I'm totally full up, I'm sorry!" and I drove on.

About a mile up the road I looked in the back and felt bad, knowing I could move some crap around and make room for two people to ride with me.  Maybe they'll give me some gas money, that would be helpful.  So at the first turnout I flipped the van around and drove back to get the couple that was headed westbound on Highway 120.

They were an interesting pair, him from Calgary with scraggly Johnny Depp-style facial hair and a keffiyeh around his neck.  Her from the UK, tall, beautiful and quiet.  She climbed into the back and him into the front.

"Where ya headed?" I asked them.

"Out of the Park I guess.  Nowhere really," he told me as we wound and barreled our way down highway 120 towards San Francisco.

They truly had no plans, I found out.  They were thinking about heading north on Highway 1, but didn’t know how they would get to Highway 1 or their ultimate destination.  In fact, they didn't really know what their destination was, only that they were headed somewhere on the North Coast.  I suggested they avoid the central valley like the plauge.

"It's hell, really.  Just farmland and the cities are kinda dangerous.  I think hitchhiking will be tough."

He looked at his California road map, contemplating, looking at San Jose and the central valley, thinking.  I suggested they ride with me all the way to San Jose then find their way to Santa Cruz, where they could pick up Highway 1 and head north more easily.  

He turned around and shouted into the back of the van, "He says we could go to Santa Cruz, on the coast, he says its a cool town.  Highway 1 goes right through town."

"Yeah, I heard," she yells forward.

"What do you think?"

She glances forward, "I don't care," then looks back out the window, smiling, and the conversation was over.

They were wandering and had been wandering all the way from Calgary to British Colombia, through Washington and Oregon.  "We got stalled out in Ashland that was a cool town, we liked it there!"  Then they had headed south to Sebastapol for a wedding, where they caught a ride with the groom’s parents to Yosemite, and here they were.  Roaming.  So I drove them to the bus station in downtown San Jose.  I wasn't really sure where they would spend the night, but they didn’t seem concerned.

I helped them get their stuff out of the van.  Carefully unloading around my precariously packed junk. I had told them when I picked them up that nothing was breakable except a stick and pinecone mobile carefully sitting on the back seat.

"So what did you guys steal?"

The girl laughs, swearing she didn't take anything.

"And you didn't break my mobile?"  I knew it would be a miracle if it made it through the drive home and that was before I picked up two more people.  But she promised me it was just fine.  
I wished them luck and, eager to get home for the night, I didn't hang around.  I fired the van up, waved, shouted another 'good luck!' and headed out.  I saw them as I drove away, stretching out their arms and legs, hug and a quick kiss.  They exchanged a few quick words and shot a smiling glance in my direction.

I hope they liked Santa Cruz.